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DB7 - Remove the Stabilizer Arms

Things to note:
Please note before you start this project, to remove the upper and lower ball joints you will need a very large C-Clamp that can be rented from the auto parts or a press. There is also a specific socket adapter kit you must also rent in order to use that C-Clamp method. Honda's have interesting front control arms that won't allow you to push that ball joint out with out. In my case, I have a 4 point 66mm impact socket that worked just fine. If not, I would have needed to rent the secondary kit that comes with the extra adapters.

This kit from Advanced Auto looks like it comes with everything: Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint...

The scope of this project was to replace:
Lower control arm bushings.
Lower shock mount bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Lower ball joints.
Upper ball joints.
Sway bar end links.
Upper, inner, A-arm bushings.

What are we doing:
Alright, so we got the lower control arms off. Time to pull the stabilizers down.

Tools needed:
5mm Allen Wrench (sway bar end links)
14mm wrench (sway bar end link nuts)
19mm socket (stabilizer bushing to sub-frame)

These were the stock Acura end links. Aftermarket replacements might be slightly different. However on these I held the center shaft with the 5mm allen so I could loosen the 14mm bolt. Otherwise the ball joint just spins in the end link.

Time to drop down the stabilizer bushing. There are three 19mm bolts holding this to the sub-frame. Make note of how they come out as one is different than the other two.

If it helps to loosen the sway bar mounts, there is one 12mm bolt and one 12mm nut holding it to the sub-frame.

Removed and sitting pretty,

Here is the stabilizer arm bushing. That nut is a 19mm. I removed it quickly with the electric impact gun.

You can see the cracks on the surface of this bushing. It wasn't too bad really.

Make note of how this comes off and where the washers are sitting. You will need to reassemble it in the same way. 

Second angle on the bushing and how the it came apart. 

So, what is going on with both spindles and the upper control arms at this point? Well I sat both of them on the boxes that the parts came in. This way they were sitting at about the "stock" height and not putting a bunch of deflection on the upper control arm bushings. I didn't really care as those are all coming off anyway but again, I think it would have been easier if I removed the entire spindle first. So, save yourself some hassle and do that.

Next up we are gonna install all of our poly bushings in this and the lower control arm. 

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Things to note:
This is part 3 of this particular write up. Please see, part 1 and 2 for further details and to get caught up to this point.

Please note before you start this project, to remove the upper and lower ball joints you will need a very large C-Clamp that can be rented from the auto parts or a press. There is also a specific socket adapter kit you must also rent in order to use that C-Clamp method. Honda's have interesting front control arms that won't allow you to push that ball joint out with out. In my case, I have a 4 point 66mm impact socket that worked just fine. If not, I would have needed to rent the secondary kit that comes with the extra adapters.

This kit from Advanced Auto looks like it comes with everything: Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint...

The scope of this project was to replace:
Lower control arm bushings.
Lower shock mount bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Lower ball joints.
Upper ball joints.
Sway bar end links.
Upper, inner, A-arm bushings.

What are we doing th…