Skip to main content

2000 Freightliner FLD112 - Details, Specs, Upgrades

My buddy Brian is a truck driver. This post is about his truck, a 2000 Freightliner FLD112. There are so many cool things about a truck that I never even knew were a thing. Brian was kind enough to give me a full once over of his little beastie.


They make these vice grips that have an angle joint welded to it. This allows you to mount your CB antenna on any railing. Pretty cool!


Update: The aluminum key chain carabiner that held the air lines broke. Brian upgraded to a massive 1/2in, Stanley, stainless steel carabiner. 

These Tectran leads are hung on a sprung cable that recesses back in to a tube. Pretty smart as it allows the motion of the road to gently move the fittings which in turn causes less stress on them.

Tectran swivel fittings. These are the cream of the crop when it comes to trailer connects. 

I'm told that everything in the trucking world is about 10 years behind the car world. So for 2000 this 90s style interior was all the rage. Look at that sweet wood grain interior! 

Brian installed a custom ODB Scanner. This allows him to view anything the ECU is capable of monitoring. The ODB interface on the truck is circular. Not like the usual OBD-II port on a vehicle.

Right under that is the jamin aftermarket stereo! 

Along with two, count them two, super awesome blown out speakers. I believe they offer 4 inches of groovy goodness as well.

Double reinforced side steps on the driver and passenger side of the truck. These straps are aluminum and are known to split and crack when not reinforced. An interesting touch I would have never known about.

Brian was quick to point out that his truck is equipped with these hot Altezza taillights.

Some of the LEDs have already begun to go. The trip down was just to much for them he said.

Chrome H1 China made headlights. They make the front end look like a boss! 
Update: High beam holding cup has broken since this post. Awaiting warranty repair. 

Brian installed custom fender extensions. I just thought they were factory. These came of a different truck and Brian custom modified them to fit.

Poly rear spring suspension bushings.

Road King 4k chassis shocks. Road King cab shocks. All ball bearing. All the shocks are rebuildable and can be swapped across different chassis. A more expensive shock but, give you better long term longevity.

Twin 100 gallon fuel tanks. The extra fuel capacity is nice. 
Update: Last night Brian pumped 173.229 Gallons in these babies. New record on filling! 91.5% capacity.

This baby has 4 batteries. They sit just behind the fuel tanks. What is interesting about this is this isn't a day cab. They would normally have more batteries. Bit of overkill there. Never hurts to have too many batteries! Until you have to replace them.

Big ole diesel turbo!

The motor in here is a 12 liter, inline 6 cylinder. It is the smaller of the cat motors available at the time. Brian had the front engine seal replaced recently. While in there they took care of a few other trouble areas on the front end of the motor.


The intake box on here is a 3 layer oiled, foam filter. It has a Pittsburgh power muffler. 
The motor takes 9 gallons of 15w40 Amsoil AME, marine and heavy duty diesel. It is their oldest recipe for 15w40. It works very well for an older motor.

The performance spec on the engine is rated for 410 crank horsepower and 1550lb/ft of torque. Brian told me there is a Pittsburgh power 1250 reflash available to up that. This would push the power figure up to 550 wheel horsepower and close to 1700lb/ft of torque.

New alternator. This one is a 170 amp brushed. Looks more like one for a car. Brian said that there are more efficient on engine load. They do not last as long as the internal fan may pull  in debris. That's why it has a lifetime warranty though.

Brian had a new intercooler installed. This particular one has a 7 year 1 million mile warranty, with a 1% failure rate. Woah! Pretty impressive there. This thing is built to last. 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Paint and Prep - Lower Control Arms and Springs

In between working on things I took a little time to clean up the front springs and perches as well. This is definitely not necessary but, it is always fun to make something fresher. Plus you get to practice your spray paint skills a bit, and that is always fun.
Tools needed: Wire brushDe-RusterRubberized Undercoating SprayOld Paint BrushRustoleum Semi-Flat black spray paintAlcohol or Brake Cleaner
Let's get to it.
Purple Power De-Ruster works like a champ for your rusty projects.
These Neuspeed race springs need some love. These came off a car that was from Florida originally. So, the elements have eaten off that factory yellow coating a bit. I rubbed the up with the wire brush for a while.
Brush on the de-ruster and let it work. You will see it fizzle for a little while. After a bit it turns in to a black paintable surface. 
After that clean them off well with Alcohol or Brake Cleaner. Anything that leaves a residue will not help the rubberized undercoating stick. I learned the h…

E170 - 2014 Corolla LE, Oil and Cabin Filter Change

My buddy David asked me if we could change his oil, cabin filter, and clean up his daily driven Toyota Corolla. That way he could be corollin in a better fashion.

The Oil Change
What's needed? 14mm socketSocket wrenchSpecial Toyota/Lexus 67mm oil filter cap socketObviously: oil and an oil filter
Precursor Notes:
Toyota specifies 0w-20 or 5w-20 depending on conditions. We went with a 5w-20 since we are in the heat of summer right now.

So this car has an oil filter cap that is located on the underside of the car. Just behind the oil pan, on the passenger side of the motor. It is an odd looking thing that requires a special socket to get it off properly. It also has a cartridge style oil filter. Similar to zee Germans.

David always had this car serviced at the dealership for the first 100k. I'm not sure if they put it on extra tight of what but, it was a massive pain to get off. We originally got a 65/67mm Penzoil Oil Filter Removal Socket. However, it was too shallow and would not …

DB7 - Removal of stock bushings, Installing poly bushings

Things to note:
This is part 3 of this particular write up. Please see, part 1 and 2 for further details and to get caught up to this point.

Please note before you start this project, to remove the upper and lower ball joints you will need a very large C-Clamp that can be rented from the auto parts or a press. There is also a specific socket adapter kit you must also rent in order to use that C-Clamp method. Honda's have interesting front control arms that won't allow you to push that ball joint out with out. In my case, I have a 4 point 66mm impact socket that worked just fine. If not, I would have needed to rent the secondary kit that comes with the extra adapters.

This kit from Advanced Auto looks like it comes with everything: Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint...

The scope of this project was to replace:
Lower control arm bushings.
Lower shock mount bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Lower ball joints.
Upper ball joints.
Sway bar end links.
Upper, inner, A-arm bushings.

What are we doing th…