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GE8 - Sticky Ebrake on Penny

We went out to the garage and hopped in Penny. To my surprise the car would not move. Did I forget to release the e-brake? Nope! I reapplied the e-brake and released it again. No change. So, after trying to go forward and reverse a few times, things worked themselves loose and all was well. I needed to take a look at was was going on. If it happened once, it could happen again. So, time to get to it.

Tools Needed:
#2 Phillips head screw driver.
10 mm socket and socket wrench of choice.
Two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts - need these to push the rear drum off

Let's get started:
The fit has four jack points. When you look under the car you will see the metal seam of the car. Look for the doubled metal. Two right behind the front tires and the other two are right in front of the rear wheels.

This is what the rear suspension looks like. Yup that is a solid rear axle. The 2nd generation Fit has an H-Beam style rear end.

I used the jack point to jack the car then, I sat the jack on the H-Beam. Not sure if this is the preferred way. It may put extra stress on those front bushings on the H-Beam however, I didn't have any trouble for the hour or so it was jacked up.

Rear drums. They look like rear drums.

The holes in the rear drums except the two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts. Screw them in evenly and you will see the drum start to move away from the hub. Please note: make sure the E-Brake is off!

My child helping. Its always nice to have little ones "help" in the garage. Just please be careful with your kiddos. Also just know what would take you 30 minutes will now take three times longer. Ha-ha!

Drums removed.

Inner view of the drums.

Nissin wheel cylinders. Factory OEM, nothing exciting except this is the first time I've ever seen one not covered in rust. All my cars are old though.

So here is where the real "work" comes in. In order to make adjustments to the E-Brake tension is done with a 10 mm nut right at the end of the E-Brake handle. In order to access that you will need to remove the center console. Don't worry, its easy.

Take out the Phillips head screw in the rear pocket.

There are two plastic screws and inserts holding the front in.

Driver's side. The screw is near the gas pedal. 

Driver's side close up.

I just lifted the rear of the console straight up. Right under that, you will see this. This is the 10 mm adjustment nut for the E-Brake. There is a closer shot below.

The 10 mm adjustment nut is circled in green. Loosening this nut will loosen the tension when the E-Brake handle is pulled up. 

Please Note: After servicing the rear brake shoe, loosen the parking brake adjusting nut, start the engine, and depress the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking brake.

Pull the parking brake lever up one click.
Tighten the adjusting nut (A) until the parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned.
Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary.
Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled up fully.
Properly adjusted Lever locked clicks: 7-10.

That's it. After this, we have not had any more issues with the rear drum sticking. Put your plastics back in, in reverse order, and you should be good to go. Enjoy!

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