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DB7 - Front Brake Pad Swap

The pads up front on the Teg where looking a little thin last time I peeked at them. Given I've put a few miles on them since, it was time for, at the very least, a pad swap. The rotors looked almost freshly turned, and or, new up front. I decided just pads in this case.

I had Hawk Yellows on the hatch and I liked them They bit hard and didn't fade on me. However, I didn't have the need or the budget right now for them, this time around. Instead I decided to give EBC a try. I went with their standard replacement pads, Ultimax2. I figured this car is a daily, I don't have any events lined up right now, and I can always upgrade from here later.

After looking in to the company itself a little more, I like what they have going on, or at least what they are advertising. This particular set of pads has several nice features: easy on rotors, low noise, good stopping power, and the interesting one by me, emits zero toxicity. Pretty cool. They are all made in their UK facility as well. If you want to know some more take a look at the Ultimax2 page on their site here.

This all comes at a price of course, not in terms of cost but, in terms of less braking power. This pad is rating for daily driving. It is one of the best in initial bite but, long term fade resistance may not be as good as a more sporting pad. Again no worries by me. These pads also have a break in coating on them. Another new one by me. The break in directions state easy, normal stopping for the first 100 miles. Hmm, well, that is no fun. 

Tools Needed:
12mm wrench/socket
Something to squeeze the brake piston. I used a pair of channel lock pliers.

Let's get to it:
Up front, swapping the pads is simple. There are a million walk-thrus and how-tos on this subject. This one however, is the one I made. Enjoy!

Remove the 12mm holding the caliper to the bracket.

Pull the caliper towards you. This will depress the brake piston a bit so you can remove the caliper.
Slide the caliper off.
Pop the old pads out.

New pads.

Old pads were a bit thin.

New ones.

Slide the new pads in the caliper. Take notice of how they seat in to the clips on either end. I would also recommend putting some brake lube on the parts touching the clips, slides, and brake piston.


Now , go brake gingerly for 100 miles!

After thoughts:
If you want to remove the caliper brake for any reason, like to paint it. The two large bolts that hold it on are 17mm. That was my original plan however, it has been so humid down here in the Carolinas I decided to hold off.

17mm holding the bracket to the hub. Only if you want to remove.

What I think of the pads:
I've put over 300 miles on these pads now. They stop well and seem to have full braking power almost immediately. They do not need to be heat loaded, or warmed up if you will. I do not however, like the amount of brake dust they generate. In two weeks of normal driving, back and forth to work, my bronze wheels look like charcoal gray. The old pads generated much less. Much less! I thought maybe it was the break in coating but, after this many miles I know that is not the case. That is the only complaint I have about these. Otherwise I think they are good investment considering their stopping power in comparison to the OEM pads.

What about the rear pads?

The rear pads were about as low as the front but, the rotors looked a bit rougher. I don't like throwing new pads on old crusty rotors so, I'm holding off on replacing the back ones for now.


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