Skip to main content

FA5 - Spark Plugs on Bryan's 09 Civic Si

So my buddy Bryan asked if we could do change his spark plugs based on his service minder. We were mainly focused on spark plugs and inspection of the suspension bushings, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar end links, and the exhaust system.

We had already changed the brake pads on the last go around. Everything looked proper there. Plenty of pad left, the rotors looked good and, no wobble when braking. The brake lines where clean. The fluid was tan-ish. No change in the level of fluid either. All was right in the braking department.

The bushings on the front and rear control arms looked great. There was only a tiny little crack in the bushing where the front driver's side lower control arm mounts to the frame. The tie rods, end links, sway bar mounts, axle boots, and steering rack bellows were all just fine. The only other noticeable item was the front strut dust covers were coming apart. Nothing I was too concerned about.

Changing the spark plugs

Tools needed:
Socket Wrench
10mm socket
12mm socket
5/8 spark plug socket.
Short Extension
Long Extension
Torque Wrench

Let's do it:
Bryan said that there was plenty of discussion between Denso and NGK plugs for his car. He choose to install the NGK Laser Iridium ones. They are already gaped at .044.

Part number for the plugs.

Love that color blue.

To change the plugs the front cow needed to be removed. There are clips across the section at the windshield. There are two large plastic push clips on the left and right. There are two smaller ones on the inside, beside each of those. One more small one in the middle. I slide my fingers down under the cow near the windshield and pulled up gently. This pops the factory clips loose. Be careful and you will not have any broken clips.

Here you can see the factory clips on the back side of the cowl.

There is one that is different. There is a label on molded to the plastic of the cowl that says, Blue Clip with and arrow. Interesting.

The metal under that cover is held with four bolts on each side. The two in the middle are 12mm and the two on the outside are 10mm. There is one in the middle which is also 10mm.


Bryan getting those bolts loose.

The one 10mm in the middle.

Underside of the cowl.  It has foam insulation tape on it where it meets the firewall. This is sticky. I had to give it a tug since it hadn't been off before.

Top side of the cowl.

Now it is time to remove the coil plug cover. There are four 10mm bolts holding the black plastic in place.

Removed the coil pack/spark plug cover.

Upon remove there will only be two more 10mm holding the number two and four coils in place.

Once the bolts are out unclip the harness leads.

The coil slides right out. We labeled them so we knew which ones went with each cylinder.

The coils didn't look too bad. There is some discoloration where it clips on to the spark plug. Bryan decided to order some factory replacements and install them next time. He is at 106K currently on the mileage.


Old plugs were Denso's. They had normal wear. New plugs beside the old ones.


The plugs get torqued to 12ft/lbs.

Now just put it all back together and you are good to go!
 

Not a bad go of things if you ask me. Pretty smooth and simple. This was our first go for this so we spent more time verifying we were doing things correctly and less time actually pulling stuff apart. I noticed for the B Service you should check and correct the valve clearances. I did not hear any noticeable issues nor was that on our radar this time around. Perhaps next time.

Comments

  1. It was fun doing this, thanks again for the help and tools!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Paint and Prep - Lower Control Arms and Springs

In between working on things I took a little time to clean up the front springs and perches as well. This is definitely not necessary but, it is always fun to make something fresher. Plus you get to practice your spray paint skills a bit, and that is always fun.
Tools needed: Wire brushDe-RusterRubberized Undercoating SprayOld Paint BrushRustoleum Semi-Flat black spray paintAlcohol or Brake Cleaner
Let's get to it.
Purple Power De-Ruster works like a champ for your rusty projects.
These Neuspeed race springs need some love. These came off a car that was from Florida originally. So, the elements have eaten off that factory yellow coating a bit. I rubbed the up with the wire brush for a while.
Brush on the de-ruster and let it work. You will see it fizzle for a little while. After a bit it turns in to a black paintable surface. 
After that clean them off well with Alcohol or Brake Cleaner. Anything that leaves a residue will not help the rubberized undercoating stick. I learned the h…

E170 - 2014 Corolla LE, Oil and Cabin Filter Change

My buddy David asked me if we could change his oil, cabin filter, and clean up his daily driven Toyota Corolla. That way he could be corollin in a better fashion.

The Oil Change
What's needed? 14mm socketSocket wrenchSpecial Toyota/Lexus 67mm oil filter cap socketObviously: oil and an oil filter
Precursor Notes:
Toyota specifies 0w-20 or 5w-20 depending on conditions. We went with a 5w-20 since we are in the heat of summer right now.

So this car has an oil filter cap that is located on the underside of the car. Just behind the oil pan, on the passenger side of the motor. It is an odd looking thing that requires a special socket to get it off properly. It also has a cartridge style oil filter. Similar to zee Germans.

David always had this car serviced at the dealership for the first 100k. I'm not sure if they put it on extra tight of what but, it was a massive pain to get off. We originally got a 65/67mm Penzoil Oil Filter Removal Socket. However, it was too shallow and would not …

DB7 - Removal of stock bushings, Installing poly bushings

Things to note:
This is part 3 of this particular write up. Please see, part 1 and 2 for further details and to get caught up to this point.

Please note before you start this project, to remove the upper and lower ball joints you will need a very large C-Clamp that can be rented from the auto parts or a press. There is also a specific socket adapter kit you must also rent in order to use that C-Clamp method. Honda's have interesting front control arms that won't allow you to push that ball joint out with out. In my case, I have a 4 point 66mm impact socket that worked just fine. If not, I would have needed to rent the secondary kit that comes with the extra adapters.

This kit from Advanced Auto looks like it comes with everything: Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint...

The scope of this project was to replace:
Lower control arm bushings.
Lower shock mount bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Lower ball joints.
Upper ball joints.
Sway bar end links.
Upper, inner, A-arm bushings.

What are we doing th…