Skip to main content

DB7 – Leaking Cam Seal, Timing Belt Inspection, Air Filter Inspection

There is very little wrong with Leslie, my 2000 Acura Integra LS. However when I purchased I noticed the leaking cam seal right away. Anyone who has ever owned a B series Honda motor knows the plastic Honda bonded exhaust cam seal is known for leaking oil. The fix for this is a simple one.

Items required: New cam seal, Hondabond/Permatex Black

Mileage: 145,125

Torque Spec: 10mm cap bolts – 7.2ft/lbs.

Tools for the job:
Torque wrench, pliers, flat head screw drivers, 10mm socket, rubber mallet. The file is just to clean up any indentions I put in the aluminum while trying to get the valve cover off.

What we need to do:

First off we need to remove the valve cover. It is held on with 10mm crowns. There was a grounding cable, power steering fluid bracket, and spark plug wire brackets attached as well. The breather for the valve cover and the PCV valve needs to come out as well.

This valve cover was really on here. I used a large flat head at to gentle pry the cover up. It had not been taken off in some time, there was even Hondabond in the stock locations on this thing. Good stuff.

After the cover is off I needed to loosen the 10mm bolts on holding the #6 cam cap on. Once loosened I tapped the cap with the rubber mallet gently to pop the stock alignment dowels loose. This allows me to remove the cam cap, remove the old cam seal, and place the new Password JDM Aluminum unit in place.

Reapply Black Permatex, or Hondabond to your cam cap cover where the seems meet the head. Also apply a small amount on the valve cover gasket and the corners where it goes over the cams. Make sure you give that time to set.

The two inner cam cap cover bolts torque to 7.2ft/lbs. Do not over tighten these guys! The cams ride in the solid aluminum journals. If you tightening this too much it can cause binding of the cam shaft and score it and or the journals.

I didn’t find a specific spec for the two outer bolts. The ones not covered by the valve cover. I just snugged them gently as 7.2ft/lbs. seemed too much.

Check sees: While I was under there I took a look at the timing belt. It looks great. I won’t have to mess with that for a while. I also inspected the air filter. It looks incredibly clean. No worries there either.


Popular posts from this blog

Paint and Prep - Lower Control Arms and Springs

In between working on things I took a little time to clean up the front springs and perches as well. This is definitely not necessary but, it is always fun to make something fresher. Plus you get to practice your spray paint skills a bit, and that is always fun.
Tools needed: Wire brushDe-RusterRubberized Undercoating SprayOld Paint BrushRustoleum Semi-Flat black spray paintAlcohol or Brake Cleaner
Let's get to it.
Purple Power De-Ruster works like a champ for your rusty projects.
These Neuspeed race springs need some love. These came off a car that was from Florida originally. So, the elements have eaten off that factory yellow coating a bit. I rubbed the up with the wire brush for a while.
Brush on the de-ruster and let it work. You will see it fizzle for a little while. After a bit it turns in to a black paintable surface. 
After that clean them off well with Alcohol or Brake Cleaner. Anything that leaves a residue will not help the rubberized undercoating stick. I learned the h…

E170 - 2014 Corolla LE, Oil and Cabin Filter Change

My buddy David asked me if we could change his oil, cabin filter, and clean up his daily driven Toyota Corolla. That way he could be corollin in a better fashion.

The Oil Change
What's needed? 14mm socketSocket wrenchSpecial Toyota/Lexus 67mm oil filter cap socketObviously: oil and an oil filter
Precursor Notes:
Toyota specifies 0w-20 or 5w-20 depending on conditions. We went with a 5w-20 since we are in the heat of summer right now.

So this car has an oil filter cap that is located on the underside of the car. Just behind the oil pan, on the passenger side of the motor. It is an odd looking thing that requires a special socket to get it off properly. It also has a cartridge style oil filter. Similar to zee Germans.

David always had this car serviced at the dealership for the first 100k. I'm not sure if they put it on extra tight of what but, it was a massive pain to get off. We originally got a 65/67mm Penzoil Oil Filter Removal Socket. However, it was too shallow and would not …

DB7 - Removal of stock bushings, Installing poly bushings

Things to note:
This is part 3 of this particular write up. Please see, part 1 and 2 for further details and to get caught up to this point.

Please note before you start this project, to remove the upper and lower ball joints you will need a very large C-Clamp that can be rented from the auto parts or a press. There is also a specific socket adapter kit you must also rent in order to use that C-Clamp method. Honda's have interesting front control arms that won't allow you to push that ball joint out with out. In my case, I have a 4 point 66mm impact socket that worked just fine. If not, I would have needed to rent the secondary kit that comes with the extra adapters.

This kit from Advanced Auto looks like it comes with everything: Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint...

The scope of this project was to replace:
Lower control arm bushings.
Lower shock mount bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Lower ball joints.
Upper ball joints.
Sway bar end links.
Upper, inner, A-arm bushings.

What are we doing th…